The Cochamo Valley is sometimes called the Yosemite of South America — massive granite walls rising 1,200 meters above an old-growth forest, with a river running through the bottom. It sits about two hours south of Puerto Varas in a pocket of wilderness that feels far more remote than its location suggests. Rock climbers come for the big walls; trekkers come for the valley; and everyone comes back changed by the place.
Getting Into the Valley
There is no road into Cochamo. Access is a 10-kilometer trail from the village of Cochamo (the trailhead) to La Junta, the main camping area in the heart of the valley. The trail follows an old colonial-era cattle route — muddy, rooted, and sometimes ankle-deep in water. Allow 4-6 hours depending on conditions and fitness. Horses can carry gear for those who prefer to walk unburdened (arrange in the village, $30-40 per horse).
The village of Cochamo sits on a fjord — a beautiful spot in its own right, with a handful of guesthouses and a general store. Stock up on food here; there is nothing in the valley.
Climbing
The granite walls of Cochamo are the main draw for climbers. Multi-pitch routes on El Monstruo, Trinidad, and Anfiteatro range from 5.9 to 5.13, with some walls exceeding 1,000 meters. The rock is excellent — clean granite with crack systems, slabs, and faces. The climbing season runs from November through March when the weather is most stable.
This is not a sport climbing area. Most routes are trad and require a full rack, portaledge experience for the bigger walls, and comfort with remote, committing climbing. A few shorter sport routes exist near La Junta for those wanting a taste without the commitment.
Trekking
Non-climbers can explore the valley floor and several side valleys. The trail to the Arco Iris (Rainbow) viewpoint takes a full day and offers views of the main walls from across the valley. The forest itself is extraordinary — massive coigue and alerce trees draped in moss, with a canopy so dense that the trail stays shaded even at midday.
The Paso El Leon trek connects Cochamo to the Puelo Valley over a mountain pass — a multi-day route for experienced trekkers with navigation skills. No refugios; camping only.
Puelo Valley
South of Cochamo, the Rio Puelo flows through another roadless valley to the Argentine border. Fly fishing for brown and rainbow trout is the main draw. Access is by boat from the town of Puelo or by the trail from Cochamo over Paso El Leon. Several estancias (ranches) along the river offer accommodation and guided fishing.
Practical Information
Getting there: Drive from Puerto Varas to Cochamo village (2 hours via Ruta 7/Carretera Austral). The road is paved most of the way. No public transport to the village — drive, hitchhike, or arrange a transfer.
Accommodation: Camping at La Junta and several other sites in the valley. Basic — no showers, no electricity, pit toilets. A few guesthouses in Cochamo village for the night before/after the trek in.
When to go: November through March. The trail is muddy year-round but worst in winter. Rain is frequent even in summer — waterproof everything.
Time needed: Three days minimum (hike in, one day in the valley, hike out). A week lets you explore side valleys and properly absorb the place.
Tip: Travel Light, Hire Horses
The trail into the valley is rough enough that carrying a heavy pack makes it miserable. Hire a horse to carry your gear and walk in with just a daypack. It costs $30-40 and transforms the experience from a slog to an enjoyable forest walk.