Carretera Austral Travel Guide

The Carretera Austral is a 1,240-kilometer gravel road running through some of the most remote and beautiful territory in South America. Built under Pinochet in the 1970s-80s to connect isolated communities in southern Chile, it cuts through temperate rainforest, past glaciers, along fjords, and over mountain passes. The road officially runs from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins, though only the first sections are fully paved.

The Route

Most travelers drive south from Puerto Montt or fly into one of the small towns along the way. The road divides roughly into three sections:

Northern section (Puerto Montt to Chaiten): Involves two ferry crossings. Hornopiren to Caleta Gonzalo is the longer one — book ahead in summer. The road passes through Pumalin Park, one of the largest private conservation areas in the world, donated to Chile by Doug Tompkins. Dense valdivian rainforest, waterfalls, and wooden boardwalk trails through stands of ancient alerce trees.

Middle section (Chaiten to Coyhaique): The most varied stretch. Queulat National Park has the Ventisquero Colgante — a hanging glacier that seems to defy gravity above a turquoise lagoon. The town of La Junta is a quiet overnight stop. Coyhaique is the only real city on the route, with supermarkets, mechanics, and proper hotels.

Southern section (Coyhaique to Villa O'Higgins): Increasingly remote. Cerro Castillo National Park has trekking that rivals Torres del Paine with a fraction of the crowds. The road deteriorates south of Cochrane, and the final stretch to Villa O'Higgins is rough gravel with few services. From Villa O'Higgins, a boat and border crossing connects to El Chalten in Argentine Patagonia.

Key Stops

Pumalin Park: Trails through ancient alerce forests, volcanic hot springs at Termas El Amarillo, and campsites run by the Tompkins Conservation foundation. Free entry.

Chaiten: A small town devastated by a volcanic eruption in 2008 and slowly rebuilding. The volcano is visible from town, and you can hike to the crater rim on a full-day trail. Ghost-town ruins remain in parts of the old town.

Queulat National Park: The Ventisquero Colgante (hanging glacier) is the star attraction — a moderate hike to a viewpoint overlooking the glacier suspended between two peaks. The Enchanted Forest trail is a boardwalk through moss-covered rainforest that looks straight out of a fairy tale.

Cerro Castillo: A four-day trek around basalt spires that rival the Torres del Paine, with a fraction of the visitors. The village of Villa Cerro Castillo at the base has basic accommodation and a few restaurants.

Cochrane and Patagonia National Park: The newest of Chile's national parks, created from former Tompkins Conservation lands. The Baker River — Chile's most powerful — runs through aquamarine channels nearby. Cochrane itself is a frontier town with genuine gaucho culture.

Futaleufu: A detour east of Chaiten to some of the best whitewater rafting in the world. Class IV-V rapids through a turquoise canyon. Several operators run multi-day trips.

Practical Information

Driving: A high-clearance vehicle is recommended south of Chaiten. 4WD is not strictly necessary but helps on the rougher southern sections, especially after rain. Fuel stations are spaced roughly every 100-150 kilometers — fill up at every opportunity. Carry a spare tire and basic tools.

Time needed: A week covers the highlights if you drive straight through with stops. Two weeks lets you hike, kayak, and detour. The full route to Villa O'Higgins and back takes three weeks comfortably.

When to go: December through March. Many services close from April, and winter rain turns the gravel sections to mud. February is peak season — campgrounds and ferries fill up.

Ferry bookings: The Hornopiren-Caleta Gonzalo ferry is essential and fills up in summer. Book through Naviera Austral as soon as your dates are confirmed. The alternative is the longer ferry from Puerto Montt to Chaiten (10 hours), which avoids the road altogether.